Chemical peels are a cornerstone of professional skincare — delivering impressive results when it comes to texture refinement, discolouration reduction, acne control, and overall skin rejuvenation. Bielenda Professional’s X-Foliate Basic Monopeelings range offers a modern, personalised approach to professional chemical exfoliation with a smart, single-acid system.
Unlike standard blended peels, monopeelings allow you to work with one key acid at a time — tailoring the treatment to your client’s specific skin condition and tolerance. Each acid within the X-Foliate Basic line can be layered, rotated, or combined (strategically) to meet the changing needs of the skin across a series of treatments.
Understanding Chemoexfoliation: The Science Behind Professional Peels
Before diving into the specifics of the X-Foliate Basic Monopeelings, it’s important to understand what makes chemical exfoliation so effective — and how it’s evolved into one of the most trusted methods in professional skincare.
What Is Chemoexfoliation?
Chemoexfoliation (also known as chemical peeling) is a controlled procedure where acids are used to break down bonds between dead skin cells, accelerating cellular turnover and revealing fresher, more uniform skin underneath.
During the treatment, one or more acid solutions are applied to the skin, triggering a controlled and predictable form of epidermal injury. This stimulates regeneration of new skin cells, increases dermal activity, and ultimately helps reverse both cosmetic imperfections and signs of ageing.
Why Is It So Effective?
Chemical peels don’t just exfoliate — they initiate both catabolic (breakdown) and anabolic (rebuilding) processes within the skin:
- Catabolic Phase: Dead or damaged structures are dissolved and removed
- Anabolic Phase: Collagen synthesis, epidermal regeneration, and barrier rebuilding begin
Over time and across multiple treatments, this leads to smoother texture, refined pores, improved firmness, and a more even skin tone.
Levels of Peel Penetration
Chemical peels can be classified by how deeply they penetrate the skin:
| Peel Type | Depth of Action | Common Actives |
|---|---|---|
| Very Superficial | Stratum corneum only | Glycolic 20–30%, mandelic, lactic, salicylic <10% |
| Superficial | Up to basal layer of epidermis | Mandelic, glycolic 50%, salicylic 15–20% |
| Medium-Deep | Epidermis + papillary dermis | TCA 10–30%, salicylic 25%, retinoic acid |
| Deep Peels | Down to reticular dermis | Phenol, high-conc. TCA (50–60%) |
The X-Foliate Basic Monopeelings fall into the superficial to very superficial range — which makes them ideal for layered, repeatable treatments that can be adjusted to match the client’s sensitivity and tolerance.
What Affects the Performance of a Chemical Peel?
The performance of any peel depends on multiple interconnected variables:
- Type of acid used (structure, source, target action)
- pH level and pKa — a lower pH increases acid strength; pKa determines how freely the acid releases protons (H⁺)
- Concentration — though more isn’t always better, higher % acids may reach deeper when used properly
- Molecular size — smaller molecules (e.g. glycolic acid) penetrate faster and deeper
- Formulation — buffered vs free acids, water vs alcohol base, etc.
- Application technique — massaging, layering, or occlusion can all influence penetration and results
- Skin type, prep, and number of layers applied
This scientific understanding is what informs the design of the X-Foliate Monopeelings — enabling a precise, results-driven approach to exfoliation that can be tailored to both new and experienced peel clients.
What Are Monopeelings?
Monopeelings are professional chemical exfoliants that use a single acid compound as their primary active. By isolating one acid per product, skin professionals gain more control over the depth of exfoliation, treatment intensity, and response from the skin — making it easier to tailor the procedure for:
- Acne and congestion
- Discolouration and dullness
- Ageing and fine lines
- Skin that’s oily, dry, or uneven in tone and texture
Bielenda’s X-Foliate Basic range uses highly bioavailable acid forms, optimised by pH and molecular weight, with a focus on safe but effective penetration.
The X-Foliate Basic Monopeelings Line – Detailed Breakdown
Each acid in the X-Foliate Basic range has a distinct profile, pH, concentration, and therapeutic use. These acids are formulated for high penetration, with pH levels below their pKa to ensure maximum bioavailability. This allows you to safely perform effective exfoliation while minimising irritation.
Shikimic Acid 15%
pH: 2.1 | Water-based solution
Ideal for: Dull, dry, uneven, acne-prone skin
- A new-generation hydroxy acid derived from star anise, Shikimic Acid belongs to the group of hydroxycarboxylic acids.
- It offers exfoliating and antimicrobial properties without typical side effects like dryness, irritation, or flaking.
- Acts as a modulator of epidermal turnover — helping regulate excessive keratinisation without damaging the barrier.
- Hydrating by nature, it improves skin moisture levels and reduces TEWL (transepidermal water loss).
- Clinical comparison: A 5% solution of shikimic acid demonstrated similar exfoliating results to a 50% glycolic acid peel — but with significantly better skin tolerance.
- Excellent for clients with sensitive, barrier-impaired, or combination skin, and a great starting point for a multi-treatment series.
Mandelic Acid 45%
pH: 1.5 | Alcohol-based solution
Ideal for: Acne-prone, seborrheic, oily, photoaged skin with enlarged pores
- A large-molecule alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from bitter almonds.
- Despite its strength, it penetrates slowly due to its size — making it effective yet low-risk for irritation.
- Its structural similarity to antibiotics gives it powerful antibacterial benefits — ideal for breakout-prone or inflamed skin.
- Reduces active acne, lightens post-inflammatory pigmentation, and regulates sebum production.
- It also helps refine enlarged pores and brighten superficial discolouration.
- Mandelic acid is often recommended in acne protocols because of its dual exfoliating and antimicrobial profile, and it’s safe for use in all seasons.
Lactic Acid 50%
pH: 1.3 | Alcohol-based solution
Ideal for: Dry, mature, sun-damaged skin with uneven tone or loss of firmness
- A well-known AHA naturally present in the skin’s NMF (Natural Moisturising Factor).
- It improves hydration, brightness, and texture while stimulating collagen and elastin synthesis.
- Reduces discolouration, evens tone, and helps refine shallow scarring and fine lines.
- It inhibits melanogenesis, making it a suitable choice for pigmentation-focused protocols.
- Compared to glycolic acid, lactic is gentler and better tolerated by drier or more sensitive skin types — but still effective due to its low pH and high concentration.
- Ideal in anti-ageing or revitalising protocols, especially when skin shows signs of fatigue or dehydration.
Personalisation & Layering: How It Works
The X-Foliate Monopeels can be used:
- Individually, with up to three layers of the same acid
- In combination, using a structured protocol layering two different acids
- In progressive series, rotating acids across weekly sessions based on skin evolution
This gives professionals the flexibility to customise exfoliation level and build a therapy plan based on real-time skin feedback.
Contraindications & Considerations
- Allergies to ingredients of preparations,
- Herpes, tendency to keloids,
- Severe forms of acne,
- Condition during or up to 6 months after retinoid therapy,
- Condition 6 months after surgery or cryotherapy in the treatment area,
- Systemic diseases,
- Freshly tanned skin,
- Pregnancy, breastfeeding,
- Numerous melanocytic nevi or dilated blood vessels,
- Skin damage and irritation, thinning of the epidermis, freshly depilated skin.
Treatment Protocol Overview
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Final Thoughts
Bielenda Professional X-Foliate Basic Monopeelings provide skin professionals with a versatile, performance-driven set of acids that can be adapted to nearly any skin type or concern. Whether used in a single-acid approach or a layered protocol, the results are clear: smoother skin, better tone, more even texture — all without unnecessary irritation.
Discover the full X-Foliate Basic system now at ProcosmeticsUK.co.uk
